Learning the Ropes – Dude Ranch Adventure

Fun fact: the term ‘dude’ stems from the old west, and is synonymous with ‘city slicker’…yep, that guy who moves out west in every old movie with no idea what he’s getting himself into.

The spectacular view of the Tucson mountains and Picture Rocks, springing up like a spine from the otherwise completely flat landscape

 

You may remember my week-long trip to White Stallion Ranch in Arizona last September, where I set out to experience authentic western riding after getting back in the saddle following a 7 year riding ‘break’ (and taking up lessons at Sovereign Quarter Horses). Following on from that trip, I got in touch with the ranch owner about working there in 2023.

Fortunately, we came to an agreement that I could work for them for two weeks in June 2023 in exchange for room and board as a wrangler, meaning I would tend to and help put a few rides on the horses and support the established wranglers in keeping guests safe and confident in the Saguaro National Park.

Touch down in Utah

Arrival in Salt Lake City

My arrival into Utah was memorable, as I intelligently decided to wear my new pair of unbroken cowboy boots on the 11 hour flights and while dragging luggage through three airports.

This would prove to be a painful mistake later on!

Once I made it into Tucson late that Saturday night, I was picked up and dropped off at my room – which, to my surprise, was NOT the bunkhouse I was expecting, but rather a large guestroom to myself as the bunkhouse was full.

With Sunday being the horses’ day off, I got an extra day to become accustomed to the 8 hours time difference (and at least 20c higher temperature than back home) before two weeks of some of the hardest but most rewarding work of my life so far.

The room with a view wasn’t bad either

Learn As You Go

The first day of working at a new job can be a bit of a shock to the system, but being jetlagged, getting thrown in at the deep end and starting at 5:30am was fun (but in all seriousness, you quickly come to want nothing else)! This is especially the case when there are simply too many jobs to do for people to show you the ropes, so you watch things being done once, move on and try your best.

Every morning began with bringing in all the horses to be worked that day, followed by grooming, feeding and saddling with regimented efficiency. You quickly learn to do this at speed, (western saddles weigh up to 27kg, so you have to find your strength fast when saddling up so many before breakfast), all the while becoming increasingly agile as you dodge the occasional fights and squalling, stomping exchanges between animals. It doesn’t take long until you’re accustomed to constant straw in your boots and pockets after hauling hay bales, or the second skin that the dust somehow always manages to form regardless of how many layers you put on.

Where there’s horse poo, there are…ground squirrels?

The sensation of that litre of water you just inhaled evaporating straight out of you (multiply that ‘dry throat -ill’ feeing by 10, swallow some sand for good measure and you’re there) definitely makes you appreciate the milder days you have back home! You’ll never complain about thirst in the same way again.

Trying to pick out new horses from a list is always interesting, because when there are just shy of 170 horse on site, the odd name here or there does tend to slip your mind! I absolutely brushed, saddled and started riding the wrong horse that looked the same at least once.

A handful of horses for the day ahead

Learning The Hard Way

Travelling often has its blips, but they simply make the pain-free and joyful experiences even more blissful.

And so the foot issues commenced! What I thought was going to be a simple blister rapidly became one of the worst wound infections I’ve experienced due to heat, dust and most likely germs from working- no photos here, luckily for you all!

It appeared on the ‘inside’ of both feet as a result of the friction from my new boots, and somehow immediately became raw wounds which throbbed and burned continuously to the point I almost couldn’t walk, followed by sudden symptoms of fever which I unfortunately discovered while picking up a saddle.

A very kind volunteer from London gave me some Compeed plasters (which, if you hike/run/do anything active and are prone to blisters, or even usually don’t experience them yourself, are a total lifesaver – I won’t be caught travelling without them again), which completely cured the issue within 3 days, and most likely saved me from a full two weeks of 3 pairs of socks and waddling to the corral each morning. The front desk was also kind enough to give me a triple antibiotic ointment which you know I slathered on.

You live and you learn!

The heat coming through this door was pretty damn oppressive! 

Early to Rise

The early starts were a necessity, as temperatures were up in the 40s – we’d start early, go in for breakfast a couple of hours later, then head to the corral for a couple of rides. A 3-4 hour lunch break in the middle of the day helped both horse and wrangler avoid the full intensity of the heat and dust.

Each day was varied: some days we were dealing with general guests, other times you’d have multiple bus loads of corporate businessmen who’d never been near a horse dropped off at the corral far out in the desert, and other times you’d be helping teach team penning (using a team of horses to herd cattle into pens) or cattle sorting. Wednesday would always be rodeo day, where the family represent the different sports they compete in.

We had one day where a large group of visually impaired young people came to the ranch to get to know the horses and have a ride, which was an incredible experience and an honour to support. These young individuals could tell quicker than most fully-sighted people which horses were ‘bullied’ by others out in the corral (through feeling lumps, bumps and bite wounds that come with the territory of busy turnout), and took a stunning amount of joy in the smallest movements of each horse and the way their breath felt on their hands. Until you witness it for yourself, it’s difficult to imagine exactly how life changing this interaction can be for people with visual impairments.

A few wranglers then took the more confident of the group out on a trail ride around the ranch, while I stayed back with some others, leading them around the large arena on horseback in a more controlled environment. It was incredibly warm work in the full heat of midday, but the looks on these kid’s faces made it all more than worthwhile.

Ranch Life Companions

Four of my mounts for the two weeks: Azul, Hashbrown, Decatur and Vex. There were plenty more, but lots of names to keep track of!

Every horse I rode during my two weeks taught me something, and it was great fun navigating the mountainous and occasionally hazardous landscape (playing a daily game of dodge the rattlesnake) alone rather than just following a set path.

From the stubborn but fun Appaloosa Vex to the towering Hash Brown, all the way through to the testing and speedy blue roan Quarter Horse mare Azul (who absolutely ran her face into the backside of a guest’s horse, jumped a creosote bush and temporarily ran off with me), every moment was an incredible experience that tested my skills and sometimes nerves! I even quite hilariously had another wrangler’s horse, Wingman, throw his head back while I held him still out on a ride, leaving me with deep pink burns where my fingerprints were. The things we complain about at home!

One of the 30-something ranch dogs

Back in the UK, riding establishments will often test you multiple times before you’re allowed to ride outside of a fenced arena, let alone move faster than a trot/jog. Meanwhile, landing for your first day on a ranch can mean being put up on a horse while leading another and loping out into the desert to find guests! It’s always fascinating experiencing both sides of the fence, and each one can definitely teach you something important.

And Now, Rest

We were given two days off a week as standard, with Sunday being the only one that really remained the same. On one of my days off, I made it over to local town Marana for some shopping and exploring. It’s a slightly weird feeling going back into a shopping centre after being out in such a ‘wild’ landscape each day!

Heading Home

The experience overall was incredible, and definitely something that I’ll carry with me. Sitting up on the back of the hay truck while wranglers move feed around, being taxied around the desert in a truck bed, hazy desert sunsets, dust devils, aching muscles, not feeling competent (and realising you are), falling asleep exhausted and fulfilled….and more, so much more.

With the rather strange summer we’ve been having here in the UK this year, I’m glad to have been able to experience that heat and sun – yes, even the most extreme of days.

It’s safe to say people take the work of ranchers – whether guest/dude ranch or agriculture – for granted. You see the romanticised images of cowboys and cowgirls, of guns and dust and gallivanting around the plains and mountains of America. You don’t see the struggle, the heartache, the cost and the exhaustion that can come with it.

But, on the flip side, you also don’t see the pride and fulfilment that comes with living and working outside all day, of seeing horses develop thanks in some small part to your efforts, the newfound appreciation you have for the nature, people and other animals around you.

Most people don’t get a taste of what it’s like to live, breathe and embody hard work and courage in the way these people do. Every day brings its own risks and challenges, but a cowboy won’t have it any other way.

It was a real privilege to work with some tough as nails people.